Dalkey Island: the boat, the goats and the ruined church

Dalkey Island sits a few hundred metres off the village, close enough to read from the shore and just far enough that you cannot walk to it. There is no bridge and no scheduled ferry terminal. The only way across is a small open boat from Coliemore Harbour, and that short crossing is most of the fun.

Nobody lives on the island now, but people did for a long time. What is left is a ruined early-Christian church, a squat Martello tower with its gun battery, a herd of wild goats, and a lot of birds. For a place this close to Dublin it feels genuinely cut off once the boat pulls away.

Getting across

The boatman to look for is Ken the Ferryman, who runs the crossing with his son from Coliemore Harbour in his boat, the Emma. The service runs roughly from April to September, about 10am to 6pm, seven days a week, weather permitting. Expect to pay in the region of 10 euro per person. The boat is licensed for twelve passengers and lifejackets are provided for all ages.

The crossing of Dalkey Sound takes only ten or fifteen minutes, but the sound can turn rough quickly, and Ken will not sail in a sea he does not like. That is a good thing, not an inconvenience. Message him ahead on the day to check the boat is running rather than turning up and hoping. There is no fixed timetable in the way a train has one, so build in some flexibility.

What's on the island

The ruined church is St Begnet's, named after a local early-Christian saint, and the graveyard around it is older than almost anything you will see in the village itself. Up the slope is the Martello tower and a small battery, both thrown up in the early 1800s when an invasion by Napoleon's France looked like a real possibility. The guns never fired in anger, which is the usual story with these towers around the Irish coast.

The goats are the island's most famous residents, a long-established wild herd that grazes the slopes and largely ignores visitors. You will also see rabbits, and there are usually grey seals hauled out on the rocks in the sound, especially around the smaller skerries nearby. In summer the island is an important breeding site for terns, so parts of it are sensitive and you should keep your distance from the nesting birds and keep noise down.

Before you go

There is nothing on the island. No shop, no toilets, no café, no shelter to speak of. Bring water, something to eat, and a windproof layer even on a warm day, because there is nothing between you and the Irish Sea out there.

Wear proper shoes. The ground is rough grass and rock, and the landing can be slippery. This is not a place for sandals.

Mind the last boat. Agree your return with the boatman before you set off and keep an eye on the time. Getting stranded is funny in a story and much less funny in practice.

Leave the wildlife alone. Do not feed the goats, give the nesting birds a wide berth in summer, and take all your rubbish back with you.

If the boat is not running and you still fancy the water, guided sea-kayak trips cross the sound in the warmer months and give you a slower look at the seals and the cliffs. For most people, though, the little boat from Coliemore is the whole point.