Getting to Dunfanaghy without a train, and out again to Tory and Glenveagh

There is no railway station in Dunfanaghy, or anywhere else in Co. Donegal. What there is instead is a set of private coach companies running long-distance routes along the N56, all stopping at the Square. Once you know which one goes where, getting here without a car is straightforward.

From Dublin

McGinley Coach Travel's route 932 runs from Dublin city and the Coach Park (Zone 16) at Dublin Airport to Dunfanaghy Square and on to Falcarragh, Gortahork and Crolly, and back. In the current timetable the 09:50 from the airport reaches Dunfanaghy at 13:35, so allow about three and three-quarter hours to four hours. Going the other way there are four departures from the Square on most days, the first very early, and the southbound coach runs via Letterkenny, Lifford and Omagh. Book online to guarantee a seat, and check the weekend timetable separately, because it differs.

From Letterkenny, Sligo and Galway

Letterkenny is about 50 minutes away on McGinley's 932. Bus Feda's Galway service calls at Dunfanaghy Town Square twice a day in each direction, with extra services on Fridays and Sundays, and runs via Letterkenny, Donegal Town, Bundoran, Sligo and Knock to Galway. Bus Feda says booking online guarantees your seat and is cheaper than paying on board. Fáilte Ireland's car-free guide also mentions a morning service with Mangan Tours from Letterkenny.

If you are coming by train, the nearest Irish Rail station is Sligo, at the end of the line from Dublin Connolly and about 146 kilometres from Dunfanaghy by road. Bus Feda's Sligo stop is on Markievicz Road, about 550 metres from the station, and the coach takes about two and three-quarter hours from there to Dunfanaghy. With only a couple of departures a day, check both timetables on the day you travel.

Flying in

The closest airport is Donegal Airport, Aerfort Dhún na nGall, at Carrickfinn on the coast to the west, about 42 kilometres and 40 minutes by road. Its current schedule has Aer Lingus flights to and from Dublin twice a day and Loganair flights to Glasgow, and the airport lists car hire, taxi and transfer firms on its own site. Most visitors from abroad come through Dublin Airport and take the McGinley coach.

Day trip: Tory Island

Tory, Toraigh, is the island you can see from the top of Horn Head, and the ferry sails from Magheroarty, Machaire Uí Rabhartaigh, about 22 kilometres west of Dunfanaghy by road. The operator, Realt na Maidne, describes the crossing as about 45 minutes, passengers only, sailing all year subject to weather. Magheroarty pier is tidal, and the operator warns that sailings can be rescheduled or cancelled because of it, so it asks you to ring before travelling or check its free app. Times vary by date and are on the operator's own timetable. Leave the car at the pier: Tory is not a place to bring one.

Day trip: Glenveagh National Park

Glenveagh's visitor centre is about 21 kilometres from Dunfanaghy by road, roughly 25 minutes. The National Parks and Wildlife Service's own notice says the park is open seven days a week but Glenveagh Castle is closed on Mondays and Fridays, with occasional further closures at short notice, and that castle tours cannot be booked in advance. The castle is about four kilometres from the visitor centre, with a shuttle bus between them. The park's own pages give conflicting fare information, so check the current fares before you go, and ring ahead if a castle visit is the point of the trip.

The Gaeltacht next door

Drive west from Dunfanaghy and you are soon in Cloich Cheann Fhaola, the Cloughaneely Gaeltacht around An Fál Carrach (Falcarragh) and Gort an Choirce (Gortahork). Údarás na Gaeltachta puts the population of that language planning area at 4,042, with 39.6 per cent of those aged three and over speaking Irish every day outside education. Road signs and place names follow, so it helps to know a few: Dún Fionnachaidh is Dunfanaghy, Corrán Binne is Horn Head, Port na Bláiche is Portnablagh and An Mhucais is Muckish.

Do you need a car?

For a weekend based in the village, no. The Workhouse, Killahoey, the Heritage Trail, Tramore Beach on foot, the surf school and the pubs are all walkable from the Square, and Fáilte Ireland's car-free guide is built around exactly that. For Horn Head, Ards Forest Park, Doe Castle, Glenveagh and the Tory ferry, a car, or a taxi booked in advance, makes the day work.